Chakapuli

Chakapuli

Chakapuli is a spring stew of lamb, white wine, plenty of tarragon and sour plum. In Georgia, green tkemali plums and their juice are used; in Israel the season is short, so the recipe gives one route with unripe green plums and another with store-bought tkemali sauce.

Prep time: 25 minutes · Cooking time: 100 minutes · Yield: 6 servings · Difficulty: medium

Tarragon is not just a garnish

The green, anise-like flavor of tarragon is the identity of the dish. A small bunch added at the end is not enough. Add a large amount in two stages; save the delicate leaves for the finish so they don’t lose their aroma.

Ingredients (for 6 servings)

• 1.2 kg lamb shoulder or neck, cut into cubes, excess fat removed
• 2 small bunches of green onions, chopped
• 2 bunches of tarragon (about 120 grams of leaves and tender stems)
• A bunch of cilantro and a bunch of parsley
• 500 grams pitted sour green plums, or 250 ml tkemali sauce plus 250 ml water
• 375 ml dry white wine
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced
• One hot green chili, to taste
• Salt and black pepper

Choosing ingredients and substitutes

In spring, unripe green plums are available in some markets. If they are ripe and sweet, add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice. With store-bought tkemali sauce, check the salt, sugar and kashrut label. The wine should be dry, and kosher if your kitchen requires it. Alcohol does not necessarily disappear completely during cooking.

Method

1. Layer. In a heavy pot, place the lamb, green onions, half the tarragon, cilantro and parsley, the garlic and the chili.
2. Add the sour element and liquid. Scatter the plums and pour in the wine. On the tkemali route, pour in the sauce and water. No oil is needed.
3. Cook gently. Bring to a boil, cover and cook at a low simmer for 75–95 minutes, until the lamb is tender. Stir little so as not to break everything up.
4. Balance. Taste. If it is too sour, add a pinch of sugar; if too mild, add lemon or tkemali. Adjust the salt.
5. Finish with green. Add the rest of the tarragon and herbs and cook uncovered for another 5 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Nutrition facts and calorie estimate

The calculation assumes trimmed lamb shoulder and fresh plums. An especially fatty cut can add more than 100 calories per serving. Some of the alcohol and water evaporates, but the calories of all the wine were counted, conservatively.

Variations and tips

• You can make it with veal instead of lamb; the cooking time may be shorter.
• Don’t brown the meat here: the flavor should stay green, tangy and bright.
• Keeps for 3 days in the fridge. Reheat gently and add a little fresh tarragon.

Summary

Chakapuli is a contrast to the other, darker meat stews: lots of greens, fruit sourness and wine. A serving is about 610 calories. See also chakhokhbili and Georgian cuisine.