Mafrum

Mafrum

Mafrum is the dish most identified with Libyan Jews: a slice of potato opened almost all the way through, stuffed with meat, coated in flour and egg, fried and then cooked in tomato sauce. The frying is not the end of the preparation but a way of setting the coating so it doesn’t open during cooking.

Prep time: 50 minutes · Cook time: 90 minutes · Total: about 2 hours and 20 minutes · Yield: 16 pieces, 8 servings · Difficulty: medium

The cut that decides whether the mafrum stays closed

Slice a potato crosswise into a slice about 1.5 cm thick, then cut it through the middle almost to the edge, leaving a “hinge” of 4–5 mm. A cold, firm potato is easier to cut. If the pocket is too thin it tears; if it is too thick the meat is done before the potato softens.

Ingredients (for 16 pieces)

• 1.5 kg medium potatoes, peeled
• 600 grams ground beef, 15% fat
• 1 large onion, grated and squeezed
• 80 grams breadcrumbs or 2 slices of bread soaked and squeezed
• A handful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon baharat, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, salt and pepper
• 2 eggs
• 80 grams flour for coating
• Neutral oil for frying; the nutrition calculation counts about 100 grams absorbed
• 2 tablespoons oil for the sauce
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 200 grams tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika, 1/2 teaspoon hot paprika, 1/2 teaspoon ground caraway
• 750 ml hot water, salt and the juice of half a lemon

Choosing ingredients and substitutes

Firm white or red potatoes work; avoid very small potatoes. Regular Israeli baharat works. If you want less frying, you can spray with oil and bake the coated pieces for 25 minutes at 210°C (410°F), but the coating will be less even.

Method

1. Cut the pockets. Make 16 “sandwiches” of even thickness and soak them for 15 minutes in salted water. Drain and dry well.
2. Make the filling. Knead the meat, squeezed onion, breadcrumbs, parsley and spices only until uniform. Divide into 16 balls.
3. Stuff. Gently open each pocket, flatten a ball of meat inside it and press the edges. The meat should reach the rim but not stick out of it.
4. Coat and fry. Dip in flour and then in beaten egg. Fry in oil 2 cm deep, 2–3 minutes on each side, just until golden. Transfer to a rack; there is no need to cook the meat at this stage.
5. Build the sauce. Fry the onion in two tablespoons of oil, add the paste and spices and fry for 2 minutes. Add the water, salt and lemon and bring to a boil.
6. Arrange snugly. Lay the mafrums in one layer or two snug layers, with the opening facing up. The liquid should reach about two thirds of their height.
7. Cook slowly. Cover and cook for 60–75 minutes over low heat, until a knife goes into the potato without resistance. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Nutrition facts and calorie estimate

The big variable is oil absorption. The calculation assumes about 100 grams of oil remain in the 16 pieces; weighing the pot before and after frying gives better accuracy. Baked with four tablespoons of oil for the whole tray, the serving drops to about 470 calories.

Variations and tips

• You can also stuff eggplant or cauliflower; the cooking time changes.
• If the pieces open, the pocket was cut all the way through or the sauce boiled hard. Cook at a gentle simmer.
• Mafrum keeps for 4 days in the fridge and freezes well for up to two months in its sauce.

Summary

Good mafrum relies on geometry more than on a family secret: a pocket of even thickness, a filling that doesn’t stick out, brief frying and gentle cooking. Two pieces with sauce are about 580 calories. For more dishes see Tripolitan cuisine and Tripolitan couscous, which is sometimes served alongside mafrum.